Birgunj - Nepal

Sh*t yourself thin diet, Indian Visa, Pokhara and Bangkok??

2009-06-13T23:06:00.001-07:00

Last time I wrote I ended on a good note, thinking that I had gotten over my illness. Unfortunately, I was wrong and within a few days the toilet and I had become best friends again. So the week was slow going for me. Dehydrated and shattered. Luckily it was a week of language classes and I only had to wander 10 minutes around the corner to get there. They had nice comfy cushions on the floor for me to collapse on (and they excused me nodding off in the afternoons). We had some interesting visitors as well to talk to us about Nepal from a woman's perspective and about the caste system here. It seems here every possible group of people are fighting to be recognised as a disadvantaged group and for their rights to be included in the new constitution (that will be written when they form a Government). The other thing that strikes me is that there appears to be a view that if something is prohibited by law here then it has changed – an example would be discrimination. People seem to think that now the law says this is illegal it will just disappear. There is also the view that the 'intelligent' people (by which I gather they mean the people in Kathmandu that can afford a good education) have already changed their ways and it is for the other people (those in the hills and Terai (flat lands)) to catch up. However, the papers tell stories of children being banned from class because they are HIV+, teachers beating a woman because they believed her to be a witch, etc.

We also visited Nepal's holiest Hindu pilgrimage site (Pashupatinath). I is on the outskirts of Kathmandu and contains a number of temples and shrines. It sits on the Bagmati river which Hindu's believe is the holiest in Kathmandu and for this reason people go there to die, with their feet in the river to purify them. This is also the place where people are cremated and so there are always funeral pyres on the bank of the river and then the ashes are then scattered in the water. The water there was filthy and full of rubbish (and ashes) yet there were still people right next to the pyres fishing and washing dishes! There were also Sadhus at the temple (holy men with dreadlocks) which were an interesting site – have a look at the photos. We also had cooking lessons at school and shared a few songs from different countries.

There was also another trip to the doctor. Turns out the medication had not cured the Giardia and so, after some tests, I was given another dose of the medication and told to come back in a few days. The weekend was awful – the meds made me feel worse than the Giardia and so I spent it in bed.

The following week was the Volunteers Annual Conference, in a posh hotel. The theme was Youth and in Nepal Youth that is defined as 16 – 40. So there were lots of speakers (from the government, political parties and NGOs) arguing that the rights of the Youth had been neglected (seems funny as by their definition of youth that must be over half the population). The main message you get from everyone is that they want equality, access to good education and health facilities and jobs and I think that if they joined together (instead of representing themselves as lots of disadvantaged groups) they would be very powerful.

Tuesday was back at Docs again (they know me by name now when I turn up!). After more tests they discovered that the parasite that I have is resistant to the medication that they had been giving me. Options were to try the same meds again (didn't seem much point if I had tried them twice already) so the only option was to change to a 'really horrible' medication (Doc's words!) for 10 days. The other thing he told me was that my intestines would already have been damaged and so I need to avoid any dairy products until he tells me otherwise. OK so milk and cheese is a little difficult but CHOCOLATE? Will life still be worth living???? Only now do I realise how many foods have some dairy in them AND they did such lovely food and deserts at the hotel where the conference was being held. AND of course no alcohol because of the antibiotics!!

Evening entertainment at the conference was; Monday - a film on inter-caste marriage (with the stars and director coming to answer questions); Tuesday – one of the volunteers was a ballroom dance instructor in a former life so we had class and Wednesday – was the volunteer's talent show! Of course I did a turn! Well two actually. We sang some songs as the new group of volunteers and then 3 of us did a sketch about our time here in Nepal and particularly our experience of VSO (it involved lots of banging our heads against brick walls – I hope the audience got the subtle message!).

After the conference things slowed down for me (lots of days with no purpose) as the other volunteers that started at the same time as me started heading off. Leaving the Guest House, a lot of them leaving Kathmandu and starting their new jobs and lives. Unfortunately I still had to sort out the issue of an Indian visa. Being based in Birgunj, I will be right on the border with India. It is quite a political area and there are always strikes (Bandhs), where the roads are blocked, shops and schools are closed, cars are not allowed on the streets and things come to a standstill. This is particularly powerful in Birgunj as the road from India passes through and this is how Nepal gets its fuel. Of course this sometimes leads to trouble (and curfews) and the road to the airport are blocked. India then is an alternative route out. Unfortunately, VSO here have recently changed their policy so that they no longer provide volunteers with a visa (one of their suggestions was cycling to the airport, 25km in 40 degree heat through the bandh, not for me with my dodgy knees!). Anyway, after some discussions they agreed to provide a visa so we had to go and complete forms at the Indian Embassy and then go back, a few days later, to pay for it and then again to collect it.

As we had to wait around for some days, and with a weekend in the middle of it, 3 of us decided to head out of KTM for a change of scenery (and to keep our sanity). One of the volunteers staying at the Guest House lived out of town and invited us to use her apartment. So we headed off on a 7 hour bus ride. Only thing was our bus broke down (twice) and we ended up sitting waiting hours while they fixed the bus. I think it took us over 10 hours in the end and I was more than happy to peel myself off the seat in Pokhara. We spent a couple of days there and it is a beautiful place. There is a huge lake and lots of greenery, views of the mountains and hills to walk. Everyone had said we would be lucky to see the mountains at this time of year, as for months they are covered by clouds, but we saw them every day. The first thing most people think of when they think of Nepal is the mountains and this was the first time I had seen any – not expecting to see any more for a while as where I am going it is flat! We also walked up to the World Peace Pagoda to get a view of the lake, mountains and the town.

Back to KTM and Indian visa obtained, back to Dr as I was still ill. Another medication try, unfortunately, that one didn't work either. There was another medication they wanted to try but it is not available in Nepal! The latest plan is to send me to Bangkok for some further investigations. I am waiting for a response from VSO in London to this recommendation from the doctor here. So life has been very boring of late – most of my time is spent in my hotel room, means I get to read a lot of books and watch a lot of movies (luckily my brother stocked me up with movies before I left) and not much else. Starting to wish I was back in the UK sipping Pimms with friends in the garden and feeling well..................

Chankhu Besi Village Stay

2009-05-09T02:31:00.000-07:00

Finally recovered enough to write and tell you about the village stay... more on that later....
Over the last few weeks we had heard a lot about the stay in the village and anxiety levels differed between people. I was actually looking forward to it – thought it would be a great experience to have – living with a family.

We had received some lessons on the cultural aspects – how to eat with your right hand (left hand for toileting!) does and don’t of eating etiquette, for example once you have started eating anything you touch with your right hand becomes ‘jhuto’ so no food is shared off the same plate and once you have started eating anything left is only fit for the animals. We also received lessons on washing at the community tap wearing our lungis – I think the boys were more worried about the communal washing than the girls and kept asking how we were going to wash. Going to the toilet was also demonstrated – but we have all been using squat toilets so this was more for our amusement than anything else! We were going to have a session by one of the last intake of volunteers (with photos etc) but I was glad we didn’t – I wanted to go and form my own impressions.

Anyway Monday came and we headed off for the bus and then the ½ hour walk down to the village (Chankhu Besi – meaning people who are too smart in the low village). It has been getting hotter and hotter here and we were pleased to get to the village school. The host families came to meet us and were given a short talk on the idiosyncrasies of us foreigners. We then went off to have tea with our families – only mine was not there L. So I went with one of the other volunteers to his house and had tea and waited all afternoon for my family to come back from the market.

My family turned out to be a lady with a 4 year old daughter living in a house up a very steep and winding dirt path – her husband was working away in the Maldives. It is very common here for men to leave their families to find work abroad and then send money home. Anyway I went and moved into my new room and then spent some time helping the girl with her homework (numbers in English). It seems that all Nepali parents aspire to send their children to private schools and they all teach English. Not long after I was called upstairs for dinner and once I had finished eating was told to go to bed (about 8 o’clock). Next morning I was woken by someone knocking on my door at 5.30am. It was the girl from the family I had spent the afternoon with. She told me I had to pack my bags and leave the house – what a welcome! Still not entirely sure what happened but I think it was something to do with the grandparents being angry that I was staying in the house. Had to go to another house to have my daal bhaat breakfast – well actually it is their lunch but they eat it at 8-9 in the morning – sitting on the floor in the kitchen, cross legged with smoke filling the room as they cook with wood and dried sweetcorn husks, next to the goats sleeping area (there are tigers in the area).

Later we all met to discuss our first night in the village – I think mine was the worst experience and the teachers were very apologetic! We also had stories of fleas in beds, mosquitoes and general shock at how people in the village live. I was found a new family to stay with – that of one of the teachers in the village school. However, the whole family had gone to the market and were not expected back until the evening. It was too hot to venture up the hill to get my bag so I took tea at another family’s house and spent the afternoon hanging around. Later I got my bag and went to my new house but still they were not back. The family in the house I had spent the afternoon at said I should just stay with them and eventually, when it had turned dark and I was ready to collapse, I agreed and they moved my stuff into my friends room. I was just getting comfortable when the other family came to get me. I could have cried I was so tired and miserable at hanging around for 2 days with my backpack! The new family were lovely though and made me very welcome. Unfortunately, no one spoke English and my Nepali has so many holes in it it’s not funny! Still we managed to make some small talk. The house was 2 stories high and newly built. There was a separate area on the ground floor for the cows (3), goats (6) and a store room above it. In the main house the ground floor was where the chickens slept, potatoes and other things were stored and the son and daughter-in-law and baby had a room. My room was on the 1st floor and next to it was the sweetcorn and grain store and the area for making butter. The second floor was where the rest of the family lived – apart from the Father and Mother who had set up bed in the outside kitchen – not sure if that was just because I had taken over one of the rooms or if that was normal! The kitchen was a little shack outside with a thatched roof and tin sides. The utensils were stored on the mud floor and knives etc were stored in the roof.

Dinner was a lonely affair as I was served on my own before the rest of the family ate(apparently this is normal). They were very sweet though and gave me a little stall to use as a table and even offered me a spoon to eat with. I told them that I needed to practice my hand eating skills so declined the spoon. I think they may have regretted that I ate with my hand though as I was even slower than usual at eating and they all sat around waiting!
The family consisted of the mother and father (both farmers), 4 daughters, 2 sons, a daughter in law and her little boy, all living in the same house. So I had a big family and was welcomed as the didi (big sister) and that is what they called me - I don’t know if anyone actually knew my name!

The days were filled with language classes in the mornings, hanging out with friends in the afternoons (drinking tea at every house you visited) and spending the evenings with my new family. The only thing that changed was my health. I picked up some stomache bug and was not happy to have to scramble down a little ladder, from my bedroom, and then outside to get to the toilet!

My first attempt at showering (of sorts) at an outside tap was interesting. You are in full public view and go in your lungi. The secret is to have good elastic on your lungi – put your hand inside and scrub and then pour the water down the front and back! On my first attempt my mother was not impressed with my attempts and insisted on giving me a hand. She started by rinsing off my hair and then decided I hadn't scrubbed my back well enough. So she scrubbed away and poured loads more cold water over me, her hand then started going down my lungi and at that point I had to insist that enough was enough!

There is no such as privacy in the houses in the village and we were forewarned that to get any privacy you had to lock your bedroom door (otherwise people just walk in). Unfortunately, I had no door only a curtain; so my family would often just come in and sit down in my room. Was glad I had my dictionary with me to help me communicate and some paper to draw some pictures.

The villagers only eat 2 meals a day, both of which are daal bhat. My family ate at 9 in the morning and 9 at night. One night we had a special treat. Dad killed the big rooster and in the evening we had him for dinner. I had mixed feelings about it - it would be great not to be woken up by the rooster under my room the next morning but the kitchen would not exactly have passed British (or any other) hygeniene standards! Anyway at dinner time I was served and insisted on not having much. Mum had already taken out the best bits (legs and something else). However, when I was not looking Mum slipped a large piece of whatever they thought was special on to my plate - the other half was given to Dad. Of course, since I had already started eating the food was now mine or rubbish so I had to make an attempt. Luckily the electricity went out at this point and we had to eat by mobile phone light, this meant I was saved having to see what bits I was eating. I must admit I can eat most things but I almost threw up trying to force the chicken down and eventually had to apologise and give up.

The next day was mother's day here - or the day you look into your mother's face. I brought my mother some pistachios as a treat, later for it to dawn on me that she had no teeth and so could not eat them! Anyway she seemed pleased and we had a party that night with all the family. They took great delight in having another chicken and then we drank some local, home brewed alcohol - how did it taste? STRONG!! The evening ended with my sisters coming to my room to teach me some dance moves. Great fun.

One day went into Banepa one day to get some goodies for a leaving party, presents for the families. I was still not feeling well and wondering if I would make it up the hill. Just then I saw a truck coming up the dirt path (first vehicle we had seen in the village). Some people were obviously using it as a way to get into town so I ran out and jumped on. Turned out to be a garlic truck and I had to kneel in the back (squashing garlic under my knees) and hold on for dear life as we wound up the bumpy path. The others were very jealous when they found out I had got a lift and spent a couple of hours in a very very nice hotel, where the receptionist made me tea acnd chatted. There was also a movie being filmed there - if I was feeling better I might have asked for a part!

On the last day we went to the school and did some activities with the classes and teachers. Anne and Rikie are both teachers so they were able to show the teachers how to use the books that had been provided before. In the afternoon we had a community sports event that was great fun with balls and skipping ropes and obstacle courses. The kids had a great day I think. The day rounded off with a party for the whole community and then it rained!

Monday morning it was a early climb up the hill back to the main road, after saying goodbye to my family. I gave them a gift of a rechargeable light and they gave me flowers, a mobile phone holder and a mango.

All in all it was a great experience but I was pleased to get back to KTM and have a good shower (in private), put on some clean clothes and have a toilet I could sit on. Went to doctors a week later and discovered I had Giardia. Great for the waistline but I would not recommend it!

Studying and Birthdaying in Budol

2009-04-19T02:33:00.000-07:00

At the moment I am staying at a training centre outside of Kathmandu in a village called Budol (just outside Banepa). There are 12 volunteers here (all new) and 4 teachers. We spend our days eating - lots and lots of Dahl Bhaat, studying and occasionally we venture out to explore the village and wander into town to see whether there is any electricity for the internet.

The Nepali language is coming along - some days better than others - we learn using the romanised script mostly, but we are also learning a little Nepali script. It is hard going and learning the Nepali script I feel I know what it was like when I first started reading. You have to first recognise each letter then try to remember the sound it makes and then try and sound out the whole word. It really feels great though when you can sound out a whole word!!

Have made friends with a family in the village and Rickie and I have been a couple of times for tea with them - the grandmother keeps asking if I will take her back to England with me but I told her I think her family will miss her too much! They have just started taking down the house - brick by brick - and then they will rebuild it on the same spot. We haven't figured out if they will make it bigger or they just fancied a new look. Meanwhile, the parents are staying in what I can only describe as a pile of bricks building and the children have moved in with relatives next door.

We all have rooms at the training centre and I am sharing with the crazy Dutch woman (Rickie) - actually we get on really well and I am very happy that we are sharing. After spending a month in the group there are times I am pleased to find a little space and Rickie and I keep each other sane! We have had a little problem with rats in our bedroom - well the rats were not such a problem it was more Rickie's screaming when she saw one! The people came over and sealed some of the holes in the ceiling and so now it is better. It might also have been helped by the fact that 2 of the guys here have agreed to sleep naked - it was one of their mother's stories, when they were little, that if they slept naked the rats would be attracted to the room so we asked them to try it out for us.

We are coming to terms with the lack of electricity but there is always excitement when the lights come on. The water is a little more difficult to contend with as you can't be certain if there will be any, if it will be hot or if it will last long enough to be able to wash the shampoo out again (been caught out a couple of times now by that one!).

Most people here now have experienced a bad stomach, some worse than others, I ended up taken one of the ladies to hospital earlier in the week as she had been ill and then passed out. The hospital was great though and she had extensive tests, x-ray and ECG done and results back within 2 hours - she was fine! Touch wood I have been OK so far.

Last week was a week for celebrations. It was New Year and more importantly my birthday. Decided to have a party on the Monday, as we did not have to go to school on Tuesday. We organised music, food and drink then, the man who owns the training centre surprised me. He had organised for two girls to come and dance for me. The dances were traditional Nepali dances and I was presented with a scarf as the special guest. They then presented me with a present of a photo frame and then a birthday cake with my name on it. Very special. The party was great with lots of dancing and singing and the big melon soaked in vodka was a hit. They came to turn the music off at 11pm - unfortunately Nepali night life finishes early so that you can be up by 5 or 6 am. Not one to give up though, we carried on in one of the bedrooms and got to bed about 3.30am. Not the same as being at home with family and friends but it was a great time and the people I am with made it special. They even clubbed together to give me a bucket of water to wash in! It was cold water and a few people had donated a few cups - better than nothing but I had been looking forward to treating myself to a shower with shower gel.

On my actual birthday, I got up early and had a few cards and presents. Anne brought me a red umbrella and had written a great poem about me and my umbrella. I also got a baseball cap and mask (to help with the dust and pollution) from Rickie and a packet of kit-kats (all in red). I was very happy until I had to spend the day in class on my own. My other class mates and a couple of others had to go into Kathmandu to get their tourist visa renewed. Luckily, I am told, my work visa has already been processed. We spent the evening with the last of the vodka and a couple of beers and I was very happy to get some birthday cards from home that my friends collected when they went into Kathmandu.

Yesterday 4 of us went for a day out to Panauti - it is a fairly large town with an historic area with lots of temples. It is claimed to have the oldest temple in Nepal - dating back to the 13th century. It is also where people bring their elderly and sick to die. They lay the people with their feet in the river as part of a cleansing and purifying process. After they die they then cremate the bodies by the river. We had a good day exploring and were lucky to be allowed into the temple as there was a party from Kathmandu University doing a field trip and the head priest had opened the temple especially. We also were invited into a government school on the way back, to have a look at the classrooms and chat with the teachers. Everyone is very friendly and welcoming.

Today we are preparing for a trip to Kathmandu tomorrow to meet people from the organisations we will be working with (strikes allowing). There are strikes here just about every other day it seems and for any reason (more of this and politics another time). They have warned us that not everyone turns up so I will find out when I get there if anyone comes from Birgunj.

On Tuesday we are heading off for a village stay. We will all go to stay with different families and take part in village life for a week. We have already had some cultural sessions on such topics as eating with the left hand only, not sharing food off a plate, sitting with your legs crossed (as it is extremely rude to show anyone the soles of your feet), using squat toilets and toilet etiquette and also how to shower outside under your lungi (and boys near to keep on their over-underpants!). I am told by others that we can expect an audience when we go to shower and that the village likes to come and watch at the communal taps................ Will let you know how that goes and if I have more than half an hours worth of Nepali to communicate with!

Schools out for the weekend

2009-04-04T00:56:00.000-07:00

Namaste, Sanchai chha?
Ok my Nepali is a little better than that but not much –it means hello and how are you?

It already seems like I have been here for a long time and ages since I left London but in reality it is just over a week. What a great week it has been. VSO has kept us busy with social, training and language events so no time to be bored or worry about what is coming next – I am just enjoying each day and will start thinking about my placement when the time comes.

Last weekend the old volunteers – yeah we are the newbies – took us out as teams to do a treasure hunt. It was a good way to learn about the areas close to the hostel. The main one is Thamel – which is a real tourist spot with lots of shops and bars, etc. We had a list of things to do and find along the way and the oldies pointed out good restaurants and the bookshop to send post home, etc. The good thing was our team one so I now have a Nepal baseball cap.

Monday, our teacher came to collect us and take us to class. He went easy on us the first day and we had basic introductions and an idea of what the course will include. My teacher was very excited when he heard my name – it means ‘goddess’ here. After class we had an appointment at the travel clinic and a talk by the doctor. Good to get another, local, view on health issues – basically he told us it would not be if we will get ill but when (Nepali belly). Also took advantage of my insurance and had my leg looked at – came away with an abscess (stress related) and it had gotten really bad. The doctor wanted to cut my leg – his words not mine- my words were no thanks I’ll have some antibiotics. All good now so much happier!

Tuesday and Wednesday we had language classes again (from 9 to 3). We were split into groups of 5 and I am really enjoying it. At the moment we are learning using their Romanised script but we were given a children’s book with Devaanagari script in it – it basically has the letters (well squiggles) written in broken writing and then we can draw over it! We will be learning that later.

My learning on Kathmandu this week is: roads have names but no one uses them – all directions are given via landmarks. Roads are very difficult to cross because of the amount of traffic and no one will stop for you. They have zebra crossings marked out but everyone keeps driving even if you are in their path! Pollution here is awful, even though there has been a bit of rain on a few days. A lot of people wear masks and chest and breathing problems are very common here.

People here work 6 days a week – Sunday to Friday – but VSO only work Monday to Friday (phew!!). Am adjusting to the power cuts and everyone makes a dash to recharge things when the electricity comes on. It is a little harder with water as that is unpredictable; the electricity runs to a timetable.

Am adjusting to the local currency already and am looking for good deals. I went out with Ricki for dinner one night and went to a nice restaurant but the meals were expensive, about 350 Nepali Rupees (around £3.00) so we went to another place and got a big curry dinner for NR150. I know it might not sound a lot to you but we were given our first allowance when we arrived and it works out at NR470 a day (that’s just under £4.20) for food, drink, transport, etc...

Had trouble sleeping a couple of nights – people go to bed early and get up early. So we are usually in our rooms by 10pm. However, as soon as it is bed time the dogs (which are everywhere) start barking and howling and barking, then, just as it seems like you have fallen asleep the traffic starts up and people are out and about making a lot of noise. Just outside the hostel there is a badminton court in the middle of the street and there is always someone playing when I wake up – the earliest I have seen is 6.00am. VSO gave us each a whistle when we arrived – for emergencies (there is a risk of earthquakes here) but I think I will start taking mine out in the day and use it to wake up the dogs that are curled up in little balls sleeping peacefully – maybe if they are awake during the day, I can get some sleep at night!!

Thursday and Friday we were at VSO offices. Everyone else decided to walk but, having a bad leg, I headed off to get the bus. I think the other volunteers thought I was very brave but I found my way asking several people along the way and practicing a bit of Nepali. We had some presentations on the areas that VSO work in Nepal. My work comes under the Participation and Governance stream but they also work in education and HIV and AIDS.

Had some good news that the person I am taking over from will still be in Birgunj when I get there so I will get a chance to get a handover from him. Well that’s if I get there. The town is very political and is known to be an area of unrest. The last few weeks things have become unsettled again and this week there has been a couple of stories of shootings and bombs and strikes in the town. VSO are doing a security risk assessment again this weekend so I will see whether they feel it is safe enough to go to or not.

Arrived safe and sound

2009-03-20T23:07:00.001-07:00

Ok bit more info from my last few days in England first (as I cut it short last time). Well the new tenants arrived but it was not a stress free affair, especially as they were trying to decide where their cat was going to love in my pet free house. They did say they would not bring the cat with them but I expect it is happily peeing and sharpening it’s claws all over my new carpets.

Anyway, having given them the keys I headed off to Watford to go and see all my family (on my Dad’s side). It was great to see everyone – even if my news had got a little lost in the Chinese whispers. One of my cousins was excited to here I was going to Naples for 2 years!

Back at the house it looked like I had never tidied – bags and boxes everywhere. That included my room – I had thought I had cleared most of my stuff but there was still such a lot left. There was still a lot of last minute things to sort out and I spent the next couple of days on the phone and internet – forwarding addresses and cancelling utilities, etc. Then I met up with my friend Theo to hand over my Mum’s life to him. Thanks Theo – I don’t know what I would have done without your offer and I hope that everything goes smoothly.

Tuesday was the day to get the electrics fixed – I needed a new fuse board. The guy said it would take a couple of hours but it ended up taking the best part of a day. I was happy when he had finished and it was time for lighting up BUT then he told me that was the time to worry as the new fuse box was hyper sensitive and would turn itself off if there were any problems with the electrics in the house. Guess what??????? Yep it turned itself off straight away and continued doing so even after some adjustments. My stress levels went up and so did the electricians. We went around the house unplugging everything and then plugging things back in and then something else was wrong, etc., etc. Finally the electrician called out that everything was OK – he had accidentally put a wire in the wrong place and it making my house look like there was some major electrical fault. Luckily he was honest, I wouldn’t have known if he had said I had to have a hundred and one things done to fix the faults.

That being the final thing to organise, I got very restless at home (well the tenant’s home) and just felt that I had finished with the house so when Penny came round, to help me move some last bits to my Mum’s, I decided that I wanted to go as well. So I snuck my case out of the house and just left – I’m not that mean, I did phone the agents the next morning to ask them to let the tenants know I had gone.

Finally the big day came. I started it by cooking a full English breakfast and then it was time to hit the shops – who would have thought that in all the time I had been getting ready to go, I wouldn’t actually have time to shop. Was hoping to get some speakers for my iPod but only had time to stock up on some drugs and a battery charger. Took Mum and her carers out for lunch, toasted farewell with a bottle of Champagne and then the taxi arrived. Arrived in plenty of time at Heathrow and got checked in – there was a little problem as I did not have a return flight booked by a letter from VSO was enough to smooth the way. Opted to have a bit of time on my own on the plane – knew there were 4 other VSO people onboard but wanted to wind down and reflect and was hoping for a little snooze. Half way through the flight, just as I nodded off a man 2 seats in front started screaming. His wife was not well and was passing out. So there was a call for a doctor – luckily I was booked in as a Miss – all the cabin crew gathered around and oxygen came out, etc.. How’s a girl supposed to sleep with all that going on! Don’t worry the wife was fine.

After a 5 and ¾ hour flight, we had to change planes in Doha (Qatar) and arrived at 5am (which was 2am UK time) and had a 5 hour wait for the next flight. I managed to stay awake until about 30 minutes before check-in and then nodded off in a chair. Luckily I had not had much to drink and woke up in plenty of time to get onboard. There was a bit of queuing to be done but I passed the time by marvelling at how tall I am again. Not the only reason I choose Asia but it’s not a bad thing! As people got on the plane, a lot of people had sat in the wrong seats, so most people were just sitting in an empty seat THEN, right near the end, a small group of French people got on. They insisted that they have the correct seat number and half the plane had to get up and move around. The flight to Kathmandu (4 hours) went quickly and half way through the flight I introduced myself to the other volunteers and had a chat with them. AND the Dutch lady is going to be in the same town as me. After Neeltje on my last trip, I am worried (Hee Hee).

Was a little worried about the visa process on arrival. Our working visas had not been processed in time and we had been told to get a tourist visa but the form said a maximum of 3 months and no working. I decided the best thing was to be as quick through the process as possible and worry about it later so I ticked tourist and asked for 1 month. – sailed through without a problem.

Outside were some of the VSO office staff with a big sign to welcome us, load up our bags and drive us to the Pacific Guest House. Driving through Kathmandu I was struck by how run down the city is and there are very obvious signs of poverty. Dusty roads and smoggy air with people everywhere and cars and bikes battling against what appears to be a non-existent traffic system. It seems that it is everyone for themselves, so if there is a gap and you think you can get through it you go – after you have given a beep of the horn to let people know you are there. If there is no gap then you make one. Apparently the risk of accidents is what concerns most VSO volunteers here in Nepal.

At the guest house, we had a quick introduction and discovered that there were 5 other volunteers that had just arrived (3 from Kenya,1 from Uganda and 1 from the Philippines and 2 more coming in the next week or so). One of the guys from Kenya is also going to my town - it's going to be a party town I think! So we are now quite a gang. Actually VSO has around 45 people volunteering in Nepal at the moment. We were advised not to go out of the guest house as there had been student elections that day and there had been some trouble and riot police were on the streets (welcome to Nepal) but 2 volunteers, who have been here for a few months, took some of us on a quick tour and then we went for dinner. Great welcome – great curry(with chicken- they also have buffalo on the menu)!

There was no electricity in the evening so we were wandering along dark alleyways with pot holes. Some shops etc have their own generators so there were some lights on and others were lit with candles. The guest house has it’s own generator too but this is only used to power some of the lights. I got a shock at 4am when the power supply came on and all the lights I hadn’t turned off came on. Apparently there are 16 hours a day without electricity and the longest block of electricity is only for 4 hours. The good thing is you get some information in advance – so tomorrow there will be electricity from 4am-8am (very useful – NOT!) and from 4pm to 8pm (ish).

Looking through an information pack we were given, I discovered that there are 2 volunteers already in Birgunj and one of them is at my organisation. Unfortunately he will be leaving the organisation and the town just before I arrive – I think that is bad organisation, it would have been great to have someone to show me around. We spent the afternoon at VSO’s offices with a security briefing to tell us about the current climate, crime, earthquakes and evacuation procedures!!! Then it was party time with all the office staff and volunteers based in Kathmandu.
It rained this afternoon but I was told this was unusual. In actual fact, apart from one day last week, the last time it rained here was Boxing day and before that it rained in October. Consequently there is a water shortage here at the moment.

Anyway that's enough for now .... day of rest tomorrow and then we are having a Treasure Hunt around Kathmandu on Sunday, language classes start on Monday, oh yeah and we get to go for a home stay in a village in a few weeks time!

I'm leaving on a jet plane..........

2009-03-16T16:00:00.000-07:00

Go on you know you want to sing the title!!

Thought I better just send a quick note before I head off.

Have been keeping my blog up, just to vent a bit of stress, so you can find out what my past week or so has been like - a week like I never want to experience again!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway just in case I don't get to chat before I go - the day after tomorrow I will be on a plane leaving all my cares behind. To tell the truth so much has been happening it really doesn't seem real.

Quick update as I leave, I have let my house and am now lodging with my tenants. I know lots of you will think that's strange but having travelled and shared dorms with strangers (and a few strange people) it's fine. I am pleased that I am leaving without the house being empty.

Been busy catching up and saying goodbyes. David it was good to see you - but would you believe I fell asleep on the train going home! Went to see my family at the weekend. My cousin had arranged a get together and it was great to see everyone (thanks Janet) as it might be a couple of years until I see them again - although they could always come visit. Ehhh?????

Only the final, final bits of packing to do AND some guy in the shops the other day said just write and ask for extra baggage - so I did and now have 40kg. To tell the truth I am used to travelling light and don't think I can make this weight unless I sneak a mate in my bag - any volunteers?

Thought I would chill out the other night and do a bit more research on Nepal and found this http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/7263399.stm I only wanted to know what the weather is like - at least you can see where I will be on the map - Birgunj!!! Luckily it'sfrom last year so I am hoping it will be quiet when I get there.

So now just the final farewells, although I know you will all be in touch.
TTFN next message from Nepal - how exciting ;-)

Wednesday can't come soon enough

2009-03-14T03:38:00.000-07:00

Can't believe it is only Saturday - 5 days since my last blog. But what a 5 days it's been.

Was buzzing around like crazy to get things sorted at the beginning of the week. Final bits of house to clear, loads of chasing on the phone for everything. Stuff to move to Mum's, her new wheelchair delivered, mattresses to buy, etc, etc, etc...... Then waiting to hear back on credit checks, electricity safety checks, gas checks. All was going well until the electicitian came around and tutted lots and said there was a LOT of work to be done - even implying that the house might need rewiring.

By Wednesday, a move on Friday was looking very unlikely so we changed to a 'maybe Saturday' and lots of chasing of electrician and utilities etc. I was so stressed by this stage that I had become chilled.

By Thursday stress levels had risen again - I never thought it would be possible to exceed Wednesday's levels - finally decided moving out before I leave for Nepal is just not going to happen and left the Agent to break the news to my prospective tenants. Don't think he was too happy but hey I like people to earn their money.

Friday had another electrician around and luckily things are not as bad as the other guy's tutting had implied and am having it all done before I go. Tenants were stuck as they had nowhere else to go - I had offered them to move their stuff in. Anyway finally agreed that they could move in and start renting today - waiting for them as I type - so I am going to be their lodger in my house for a couple of days......... To be continued.............

Wot a difference a day makes.......

2009-03-09T12:15:00.000-07:00

Well when last I wrote (2 days ago) I was stressing about what to do with the car, what to do with the house, and so on......

Tried to give my car to a friend, as I really wanted her to be looked after, but he said no. So, put her on the internet (all sparkly and clean) and the next day she was sold and off to a new home. The couple that bought her were really lovely. They told me they will take good care of her - even said I could email to see how she is doing!! I think, perhaps, they saw a little tear in my eye.

Spent the whole weekend clearing understair cupboards and the outside toilet. Top tip for you - don't cram all your junk in places like this 'cos one day you're gonna have to clear it all out (and I mean ALL!).

So feeling I had achieved a lot, I was able to have a good, long soak in a very bubbly bath, with candles and wine - ahhh some things I really will miss. Relaxed, I was back to Docs for another blood pressure test today (it was high last week - I did tell him I thought it was stress). Anyway today it was back within normal limits. So back home to the next round of phone calls and letter writing and stuff.

Still wondering about the house and what will happen if I go away without renting it. Which estate agents do I leave the keys with, what about insurance if it's empty, etc, etc.... Phone rings, someone coming to view in 5 minutes - who knew I could cram things back in cupboards so quickly! 10 minutes after the viewing get a call for more info; 5 minutes after that get asked if I am prepared to move out of my house early. The couple want to move in this Friday. Ooooh my god!!!! An hour of thinking can I move by Friday? No way! I suppose I could.... No I'll be homeless; but the house would be rented; but I haven't finished packing the house and have not even started thinking about packing stuff to go away with. But the house would be rented. Good old Lyn to the rescue - what am I going to do in Nepal without my good friends and sounding boards? Soooooo.............................

I SAID YES!!!! OH ****!!!!!! (Sure you can fill in the gaps). So now it's get everything done ASAP and wait to find out if I will be homeless this weekend. If I wasn't crazy already, I think this process might well turn me that way.
P.S. Bet my blood pressure is up again!

11 days and counting

2009-03-07T00:56:00.000-08:00

Photos: Anna, Theo, Katherine & Rory; Good wine .... Aaaahhh!!; My little car

I have never known time to go soooo quickly - can't wait to get to Nepal and for things to slow down.

Most things are coming together. Been busy trying to get the house rented - no luck as yet but I am keeping my fingers crossed. Well, it only takes one person and I hope they arrive before I go. Also got to get rid of my car - I love my little car and she has been very good to me so I am hoping for a nice new home for her but again time is running out.

Sorting out finances is ongoing and not helped by call centre staff that don't know what they are talking about. Also doesn't help when people don't read the information you have given them. I am sitting waiting for responses from people only to find out they have decided to write to me in Nepal! WHY?????

Have been having a great time catching up with old friends though and enjoying the fine food and wine that I may miss when I am away (of course good friends could always send a case or 2!). A good old roast dinner is always top of the list and Anna and Theo rustled up a great one with all the trimmings and great wine - still digesting almost a week later! Also had a visit to Madame Tussaud's with some friends from my old work. Had dinner with George Clooney but have to say he was not exactly stimulating company.

Got an email or 2 this week from volunteers who are already settled in Nepal (working for VSO). It was great to have contact, have a few questions answered and know that they are planning for my arrival. Kathmandu is currently 28 degrees with 46% humidity. The list of things to take includes strange things like pan scourers (apparently you can't get good ones in Nepal!) and things I had already planned like an iPod for the long dark evenings.

Had contact from people off my courses that have already gone abroad, some are encouraging, some are worrying and some people are just plain spoiled. Mark sounds like he in settling in well in Indonesia - living with a host family at the moment and learning the language. Tom and Julie have just arrived at their concrete shack minus electricity and with the hope of water. Charlotte sends reports of her nice house, with gate boy and house maid!! Wonder what my accomodation will be like???????

Th..th...three weeks left

2009-02-25T05:46:00.000-08:00

Woke up at 6am this morning panicking that there are only 3 weeks left!! At least it was an incentive for me to get up in the loft and do a bit more sorting. Only 2 cupboards left to do and stuff to deliver to Mum's, the charity shops and the tip and then I am DONE.

Had great news today. Got my tickets (actually make that ticket - it's one way) through from VSO and was delighted to find that my baggage allowance is higher than I thought. VSO tell you it is 25kg but my airline has allowed 35kg. You may not think that's a lot for 2 years and 2 months but it is a lot more than the 25kg I thought I would have. Have to go back to the tip now and see if I can retrieve the kitchen sink - I threw it out when I didn't think I would have room for it.

Great news on the vaccination front too - all finished and final blood test done, so no more black and blue arms and feeling ill. Strange thing was the nurse, who gave me the injections, had actually been to the town I am going to be based in in Nepal (first person I have met that has been there). Great I thought,"So what's Birgunj like?" "Well, it's a border town so you know how they are. It is very isolated but had a good street for shopping and the people were very friendly. Oh and the hospital across the border is very good." Thank god for friendly people in Nepal - that's what I say!!

So that means I am down to about 1000 things left on my 'To Do' list. With 3 weeks to go, I make that about 50 a day! No problem - I'm pleased it's going down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Where's time going???

2009-02-19T14:14:00.000-08:00

Photos: Above - My tidy house ready for viewings; Below - my spare room at worst (3 weeks ago) and how it looks now!

Here I am again - finally found time to sit down after a hectic couple of weeks.

Been busy, busy, busy getting the house sorted out and ready to put on the rental market. Finally got it done today and so am giving myself an evening off from sorting, boxing, tipping, freecycling, trips to the charity shops, fixing and decorating to have a glass of wine (or 3!) . Did have an interesting experience on Gum Tree. Thought I would try and sell a few things. Some guy showed an interest and then said he was sending a cheque. The cheque arrived Special Delivery for £1000 for an item that was £45. Wished it was a god send but feared it was a scam. Unfortunately the later was right and I went and handed into the bank. They thanked me but didn't give me the £1000. He is still emailing asking me to send him the difference by Western Union - does he think I'm crazy? Well OK, maybe, but not that crazy.

Of course I have been making time to catch up with friends. Although there is a hint of sadness now as I see them and think that it might be a couple of years before I see them again. Of course you are all invited to visit, but friends seem to be reluctant - we can always find a hotel when you come if you think my place will be to squalid for you.

Have had much needed help from a few good friends - Lyn and Rob you were absolute stars helping me declutter and move stuff to have carpet laid. I still have a image of Lyn, whenever I lose the will to throw things out, saying 'just get rid'. It's just what I needed and the house is looking better for it. Others too have been offering help and support, both while I am here and when I am away - thanks to everyone, I was in danger of going loopy once or twice. If I haven't taken up your offer yet, don't worry there is still loads to do and I am sure there will be an ongoing need for parcels of goodies to be sent to me in Nepal.

Have been stocking up on gadgets to fill my lonely, non-English, power cut evenings (feeling sorry for me? Just wanted to encourage the parcel sending). Now have a wind-up radio and torch, music, a new laptop (with memory) and someone gave me a solar power charger which I hope will work. I am a muggers dream!

Injections are almost finished - although I got an unplanned one this week. That's 8 down and 2 to go. Blood tests - 2 down and 1 to go. Anti-malarials sorted. It is great actually to be able to tick things of my MANY long lists. Now the correspondence to deal with - I love the taxman (NOT!). Only found out that I have to do self-assessment as I will no longer be considered 'resident' but no one wants to talk to me about it and they keep sending me the wrong forms - last week I was asked to do self-assessment for last year - why? I wasn't even here!

As I said though I am getting through the lists and am now getting some sleep at night. It was 4 weeks to go yesterday so still loads of time eh?????????? Promise to be more cheerful next time...

GULP - 6 weeks!!

2009-02-10T16:18:00.000-08:00

All of a sudden the days are flying by and there is still so much to do. Think there will be 4 other volunteers heading to Nepal at the same time as me and we will spend our first 2 months together in Kathmandu doing some in country training. It sounds like a long time to train but I have to learn Nepali and if you have a look at the writing you will understand why (it's Sanskrit)!!

After that I head off to my placement in Birgunj. Thought you might like a little background so here goes...... Birgunj is the capital of Parsa district lying directly south of Kathmandu on the Indian Border in the southern central Terai. It is only 2 km from the border - so I can easily cycle there. The area is very flat and hot, with summer temperatures up to mid forties degrees Celsius. Winters are pleasant, with warm and sunny days although there can be fog which brings the temperature down and can make the temperature much colder. The monsoon rains fall from July to September. High humidity makes the temperature appear much hotter from May to August.

The organisation I will be working for works through community based projects to help disadvantaged groups, so here is a little about that..... The local population is a wide mix of ethnic groups due to urban migration and the location near the Indian border. The area attracts job seekers from the outlying villages and neighbouring districts where there is wide spread poverty and poor standard of education. Gender inequality is inherent in the society and girls and women receive less education, training and other social services, and have fewer employment opportunities and freedoms than men. Parsa borders the state of Bihar (one of India's poorest states) which influences the culture and attitude of many people in the area. Nepal also has a caste system (like India) and so another group that I will working with are the Dalits, the lowest caste (AKA the untouchables).

Mood is swinging at the moment from excited, to stressed (so much to do before I go and running out of spots to have injections), to very excited (new life, new language, new culture), to a little concerned (new language and how do I survive with power cuts of 16 hours everyday?), to I JUST WANT TO BE THERE NOW!!

More preparations

2009-02-10T15:57:00.000-08:00

PHOTOS: Inside Harbourne Hall, My SKWID buddies

Reality hit when I returned to London with only 8 weeks left to sort my life out. So that's decorating the house ready to let it (I have become quite a DIYer but will be relieved when it is finished). Then there is my life to organise - house to clear, finances to organise, insurances, more injections, letting the house, selling my car, saying my farewells, shopping, packing (only normal allowances) etc ................ and Mum's finances, wheelchair, etc........... Loads to do and time is ticking.

Amongst all this I found time to attend my 2nd VSO course this time on Health & Security - as if I didn't have enough to worry about! and Skills for Working in a Development. Again it was great to meet a new set of people and at this stage we had all got our placements and were excited to be heading off to all corners of the world within a couple of months. This was a very practical course and we had good running sessions, role playing and of course learning new skills.

While on the course I became a celebrity for the day when I was interviewed and photographed for the Independent Newspaper - if you fancy a laugh have a look ..... http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/an-army-of-altruists-vso-boosted-by-record-rise-in-recruits-1522538.html Not too happy about the middle-aged reference though! Also have had offers to do a live slot on BBC Breakfast and to do a BBC programme for daytime TV - unfortunately no time to be a star.

Also received my departure date and flight info. so it is official, I am off on March 18th.

The journey continues

2009-02-10T15:15:00.000-08:00

PHOTOS: Clara, my brother and I; Me bringing in the wood, Steve's house;The view from the garden; Steve's yacht

Early January and next began the round of forms to fill out for visas, next of kin, medical, dental check-up and ALL the vaccinations to get done and I do mean ALL! With so much to do I decided it was only right to take some time out and so I headed off to Barcelona (well just outside in the hills of a National Park) for a short break to see my brother and his girlfriend and their new house in the hills. Had a good time with my brother, although he could only hobble short distances as he has a bad ankle and is waiting for a 2nd operation. Thought I might get an opportunity to top up the tan but it was freezing, it snowed and we only had a wood burner to snuggle around! It was great though.

My journey begins....

2009-02-04T10:19:00.000-08:00

PHOTOS: Harbourne Hall (Birmingham) where I did my training and my P2V course buddies.

Here is a quick review of my time so far:

After a short time to adjust to life back in the UK, I started thinking about what I wanted to do next - of course I had given it some thought while I was away. Anyway decided that my ideal would be to go abroad again but to spend time in one place, doing some worthwhile work and learning about another culture. Spent a long time looking into various options and finally decided VSO (Voluntary Services Overseas) looked like a really exciting prospect, offering everything i was looking for. Have a look for yourself http://www.vso.org.uk/.

Of course I dithered a while longer and finally applied for VSO in September, attended an assessment day and was interviewed at the end of October, got accepted 2 weeks later and had my offer of a placement in December. Actually, I had 2 placement offers. The first was for New Delhi and the 2nd was for Nepal. Originally I had a leaning towards a placement in Africa, as I have never been and have always wanted to go. But, fate has been good to me so I was open to any placements that I was offered. I decided that New Delhi was not the place for me - not for 2 years anyway (too big and crowded) and am very excited to be going to Nepal (another place I have always wanted to go) and so I will be going to work as an Organisational Development Advisor for 2 years and 2 months!!!!!!

VSO have a set process that you go through once you have been accepted and this includes training courses (pre-departure) as well as access to lots of online resources to brush up on the country you are going to and the skills you will need to do your work.

The first course (Preparing to Volunteer) was in Mid-December. This was an opportunity to consider some of this issues around developing countries and aid, trade & debt (past and present situations). Also looking at disadvantaged people and HIV and AIDS and finally some sessions on the personal issues around working as a volunteer overseas. The best part for me though was getting together with a group of people that had the same ideas and goals as me - I know a lot of you (especially at home) think I am crazy (well maybe I am a little!!).