Sh*t yourself thin diet, Indian Visa, Pokhara and Bangkok??

Last time I wrote I ended on a good note, thinking that I had gotten over my illness. Unfortunately, I was wrong and within a few days the toilet and I had become best friends again. So the week was slow going for me. Dehydrated and shattered. Luckily it was a week of language classes and I only had to wander 10 minutes around the corner to get there. They had nice comfy cushions on the floor for me to collapse on (and they excused me nodding off in the afternoons). We had some interesting visitors as well to talk to us about Nepal from a woman's perspective and about the caste system here. It seems here every possible group of people are fighting to be recognised as a disadvantaged group and for their rights to be included in the new constitution (that will be written when they form a Government). The other thing that strikes me is that there appears to be a view that if something is prohibited by law here then it has changed – an example would be discrimination. People seem to think that now the law says this is illegal it will just disappear. There is also the view that the 'intelligent' people (by which I gather they mean the people in Kathmandu that can afford a good education) have already changed their ways and it is for the other people (those in the hills and Terai (flat lands)) to catch up. However, the papers tell stories of children being banned from class because they are HIV+, teachers beating a woman because they believed her to be a witch, etc.

We also visited Nepal's holiest Hindu pilgrimage site (Pashupatinath). I is on the outskirts of Kathmandu and contains a number of temples and shrines. It sits on the Bagmati river which Hindu's believe is the holiest in Kathmandu and for this reason people go there to die, with their feet in the river to purify them. This is also the place where people are cremated and so there are always funeral pyres on the bank of the river and then the ashes are then scattered in the water. The water there was filthy and full of rubbish (and ashes) yet there were still people right next to the pyres fishing and washing dishes! There were also Sadhus at the temple (holy men with dreadlocks) which were an interesting site – have a look at the photos. We also had cooking lessons at school and shared a few songs from different countries.

There was also another trip to the doctor. Turns out the medication had not cured the Giardia and so, after some tests, I was given another dose of the medication and told to come back in a few days. The weekend was awful – the meds made me feel worse than the Giardia and so I spent it in bed.

The following week was the Volunteers Annual Conference, in a posh hotel. The theme was Youth and in Nepal Youth that is defined as 16 – 40. So there were lots of speakers (from the government, political parties and NGOs) arguing that the rights of the Youth had been neglected (seems funny as by their definition of youth that must be over half the population). The main message you get from everyone is that they want equality, access to good education and health facilities and jobs and I think that if they joined together (instead of representing themselves as lots of disadvantaged groups) they would be very powerful.

Tuesday was back at Docs again (they know me by name now when I turn up!). After more tests they discovered that the parasite that I have is resistant to the medication that they had been giving me. Options were to try the same meds again (didn't seem much point if I had tried them twice already) so the only option was to change to a 'really horrible' medication (Doc's words!) for 10 days. The other thing he told me was that my intestines would already have been damaged and so I need to avoid any dairy products until he tells me otherwise. OK so milk and cheese is a little difficult but CHOCOLATE? Will life still be worth living???? Only now do I realise how many foods have some dairy in them AND they did such lovely food and deserts at the hotel where the conference was being held. AND of course no alcohol because of the antibiotics!!

Evening entertainment at the conference was; Monday - a film on inter-caste marriage (with the stars and director coming to answer questions); Tuesday – one of the volunteers was a ballroom dance instructor in a former life so we had class and Wednesday – was the volunteer's talent show! Of course I did a turn! Well two actually. We sang some songs as the new group of volunteers and then 3 of us did a sketch about our time here in Nepal and particularly our experience of VSO (it involved lots of banging our heads against brick walls – I hope the audience got the subtle message!).

After the conference things slowed down for me (lots of days with no purpose) as the other volunteers that started at the same time as me started heading off. Leaving the Guest House, a lot of them leaving Kathmandu and starting their new jobs and lives. Unfortunately I still had to sort out the issue of an Indian visa. Being based in Birgunj, I will be right on the border with India. It is quite a political area and there are always strikes (Bandhs), where the roads are blocked, shops and schools are closed, cars are not allowed on the streets and things come to a standstill. This is particularly powerful in Birgunj as the road from India passes through and this is how Nepal gets its fuel. Of course this sometimes leads to trouble (and curfews) and the road to the airport are blocked. India then is an alternative route out. Unfortunately, VSO here have recently changed their policy so that they no longer provide volunteers with a visa (one of their suggestions was cycling to the airport, 25km in 40 degree heat through the bandh, not for me with my dodgy knees!). Anyway, after some discussions they agreed to provide a visa so we had to go and complete forms at the Indian Embassy and then go back, a few days later, to pay for it and then again to collect it.

As we had to wait around for some days, and with a weekend in the middle of it, 3 of us decided to head out of KTM for a change of scenery (and to keep our sanity). One of the volunteers staying at the Guest House lived out of town and invited us to use her apartment. So we headed off on a 7 hour bus ride. Only thing was our bus broke down (twice) and we ended up sitting waiting hours while they fixed the bus. I think it took us over 10 hours in the end and I was more than happy to peel myself off the seat in Pokhara. We spent a couple of days there and it is a beautiful place. There is a huge lake and lots of greenery, views of the mountains and hills to walk. Everyone had said we would be lucky to see the mountains at this time of year, as for months they are covered by clouds, but we saw them every day. The first thing most people think of when they think of Nepal is the mountains and this was the first time I had seen any – not expecting to see any more for a while as where I am going it is flat! We also walked up to the World Peace Pagoda to get a view of the lake, mountains and the town.

Back to KTM and Indian visa obtained, back to Dr as I was still ill. Another medication try, unfortunately, that one didn't work either. There was another medication they wanted to try but it is not available in Nepal! The latest plan is to send me to Bangkok for some further investigations. I am waiting for a response from VSO in London to this recommendation from the doctor here. So life has been very boring of late – most of my time is spent in my hotel room, means I get to read a lot of books and watch a lot of movies (luckily my brother stocked me up with movies before I left) and not much else. Starting to wish I was back in the UK sipping Pimms with friends in the garden and feeling well..................

Chankhu Besi Village Stay

Finally recovered enough to write and tell you about the village stay... more on that later....
Over the last few weeks we had heard a lot about the stay in the village and anxiety levels differed between people. I was actually looking forward to it – thought it would be a great experience to have – living with a family.

We had received some lessons on the cultural aspects – how to eat with your right hand (left hand for toileting!) does and don’t of eating etiquette, for example once you have started eating anything you touch with your right hand becomes ‘jhuto’ so no food is shared off the same plate and once you have started eating anything left is only fit for the animals. We also received lessons on washing at the community tap wearing our lungis – I think the boys were more worried about the communal washing than the girls and kept asking how we were going to wash. Going to the toilet was also demonstrated – but we have all been using squat toilets so this was more for our amusement than anything else! We were going to have a session by one of the last intake of volunteers (with photos etc) but I was glad we didn’t – I wanted to go and form my own impressions.

Anyway Monday came and we headed off for the bus and then the ½ hour walk down to the village (Chankhu Besi – meaning people who are too smart in the low village). It has been getting hotter and hotter here and we were pleased to get to the village school. The host families came to meet us and were given a short talk on the idiosyncrasies of us foreigners. We then went off to have tea with our families – only mine was not there L. So I went with one of the other volunteers to his house and had tea and waited all afternoon for my family to come back from the market.

My family turned out to be a lady with a 4 year old daughter living in a house up a very steep and winding dirt path – her husband was working away in the Maldives. It is very common here for men to leave their families to find work abroad and then send money home. Anyway I went and moved into my new room and then spent some time helping the girl with her homework (numbers in English). It seems that all Nepali parents aspire to send their children to private schools and they all teach English. Not long after I was called upstairs for dinner and once I had finished eating was told to go to bed (about 8 o’clock). Next morning I was woken by someone knocking on my door at 5.30am. It was the girl from the family I had spent the afternoon with. She told me I had to pack my bags and leave the house – what a welcome! Still not entirely sure what happened but I think it was something to do with the grandparents being angry that I was staying in the house. Had to go to another house to have my daal bhaat breakfast – well actually it is their lunch but they eat it at 8-9 in the morning – sitting on the floor in the kitchen, cross legged with smoke filling the room as they cook with wood and dried sweetcorn husks, next to the goats sleeping area (there are tigers in the area).

Later we all met to discuss our first night in the village – I think mine was the worst experience and the teachers were very apologetic! We also had stories of fleas in beds, mosquitoes and general shock at how people in the village live. I was found a new family to stay with – that of one of the teachers in the village school. However, the whole family had gone to the market and were not expected back until the evening. It was too hot to venture up the hill to get my bag so I took tea at another family’s house and spent the afternoon hanging around. Later I got my bag and went to my new house but still they were not back. The family in the house I had spent the afternoon at said I should just stay with them and eventually, when it had turned dark and I was ready to collapse, I agreed and they moved my stuff into my friends room. I was just getting comfortable when the other family came to get me. I could have cried I was so tired and miserable at hanging around for 2 days with my backpack! The new family were lovely though and made me very welcome. Unfortunately, no one spoke English and my Nepali has so many holes in it it’s not funny! Still we managed to make some small talk. The house was 2 stories high and newly built. There was a separate area on the ground floor for the cows (3), goats (6) and a store room above it. In the main house the ground floor was where the chickens slept, potatoes and other things were stored and the son and daughter-in-law and baby had a room. My room was on the 1st floor and next to it was the sweetcorn and grain store and the area for making butter. The second floor was where the rest of the family lived – apart from the Father and Mother who had set up bed in the outside kitchen – not sure if that was just because I had taken over one of the rooms or if that was normal! The kitchen was a little shack outside with a thatched roof and tin sides. The utensils were stored on the mud floor and knives etc were stored in the roof.

Dinner was a lonely affair as I was served on my own before the rest of the family ate(apparently this is normal). They were very sweet though and gave me a little stall to use as a table and even offered me a spoon to eat with. I told them that I needed to practice my hand eating skills so declined the spoon. I think they may have regretted that I ate with my hand though as I was even slower than usual at eating and they all sat around waiting!
The family consisted of the mother and father (both farmers), 4 daughters, 2 sons, a daughter in law and her little boy, all living in the same house. So I had a big family and was welcomed as the didi (big sister) and that is what they called me - I don’t know if anyone actually knew my name!

The days were filled with language classes in the mornings, hanging out with friends in the afternoons (drinking tea at every house you visited) and spending the evenings with my new family. The only thing that changed was my health. I picked up some stomache bug and was not happy to have to scramble down a little ladder, from my bedroom, and then outside to get to the toilet!

My first attempt at showering (of sorts) at an outside tap was interesting. You are in full public view and go in your lungi. The secret is to have good elastic on your lungi – put your hand inside and scrub and then pour the water down the front and back! On my first attempt my mother was not impressed with my attempts and insisted on giving me a hand. She started by rinsing off my hair and then decided I hadn't scrubbed my back well enough. So she scrubbed away and poured loads more cold water over me, her hand then started going down my lungi and at that point I had to insist that enough was enough!

There is no such as privacy in the houses in the village and we were forewarned that to get any privacy you had to lock your bedroom door (otherwise people just walk in). Unfortunately, I had no door only a curtain; so my family would often just come in and sit down in my room. Was glad I had my dictionary with me to help me communicate and some paper to draw some pictures.

The villagers only eat 2 meals a day, both of which are daal bhat. My family ate at 9 in the morning and 9 at night. One night we had a special treat. Dad killed the big rooster and in the evening we had him for dinner. I had mixed feelings about it - it would be great not to be woken up by the rooster under my room the next morning but the kitchen would not exactly have passed British (or any other) hygeniene standards! Anyway at dinner time I was served and insisted on not having much. Mum had already taken out the best bits (legs and something else). However, when I was not looking Mum slipped a large piece of whatever they thought was special on to my plate - the other half was given to Dad. Of course, since I had already started eating the food was now mine or rubbish so I had to make an attempt. Luckily the electricity went out at this point and we had to eat by mobile phone light, this meant I was saved having to see what bits I was eating. I must admit I can eat most things but I almost threw up trying to force the chicken down and eventually had to apologise and give up.

The next day was mother's day here - or the day you look into your mother's face. I brought my mother some pistachios as a treat, later for it to dawn on me that she had no teeth and so could not eat them! Anyway she seemed pleased and we had a party that night with all the family. They took great delight in having another chicken and then we drank some local, home brewed alcohol - how did it taste? STRONG!! The evening ended with my sisters coming to my room to teach me some dance moves. Great fun.

One day went into Banepa one day to get some goodies for a leaving party, presents for the families. I was still not feeling well and wondering if I would make it up the hill. Just then I saw a truck coming up the dirt path (first vehicle we had seen in the village). Some people were obviously using it as a way to get into town so I ran out and jumped on. Turned out to be a garlic truck and I had to kneel in the back (squashing garlic under my knees) and hold on for dear life as we wound up the bumpy path. The others were very jealous when they found out I had got a lift and spent a couple of hours in a very very nice hotel, where the receptionist made me tea acnd chatted. There was also a movie being filmed there - if I was feeling better I might have asked for a part!

On the last day we went to the school and did some activities with the classes and teachers. Anne and Rikie are both teachers so they were able to show the teachers how to use the books that had been provided before. In the afternoon we had a community sports event that was great fun with balls and skipping ropes and obstacle courses. The kids had a great day I think. The day rounded off with a party for the whole community and then it rained!

Monday morning it was a early climb up the hill back to the main road, after saying goodbye to my family. I gave them a gift of a rechargeable light and they gave me flowers, a mobile phone holder and a mango.

All in all it was a great experience but I was pleased to get back to KTM and have a good shower (in private), put on some clean clothes and have a toilet I could sit on. Went to doctors a week later and discovered I had Giardia. Great for the waistline but I would not recommend it!

Studying and Birthdaying in Budol

At the moment I am staying at a training centre outside of Kathmandu in a village called Budol (just outside Banepa). There are 12 volunteers here (all new) and 4 teachers. We spend our days eating - lots and lots of Dahl Bhaat, studying and occasionally we venture out to explore the village and wander into town to see whether there is any electricity for the internet.

The Nepali language is coming along - some days better than others - we learn using the romanised script mostly, but we are also learning a little Nepali script. It is hard going and learning the Nepali script I feel I know what it was like when I first started reading. You have to first recognise each letter then try to remember the sound it makes and then try and sound out the whole word. It really feels great though when you can sound out a whole word!!

Have made friends with a family in the village and Rickie and I have been a couple of times for tea with them - the grandmother keeps asking if I will take her back to England with me but I told her I think her family will miss her too much! They have just started taking down the house - brick by brick - and then they will rebuild it on the same spot. We haven't figured out if they will make it bigger or they just fancied a new look. Meanwhile, the parents are staying in what I can only describe as a pile of bricks building and the children have moved in with relatives next door.

We all have rooms at the training centre and I am sharing with the crazy Dutch woman (Rickie) - actually we get on really well and I am very happy that we are sharing. After spending a month in the group there are times I am pleased to find a little space and Rickie and I keep each other sane! We have had a little problem with rats in our bedroom - well the rats were not such a problem it was more Rickie's screaming when she saw one! The people came over and sealed some of the holes in the ceiling and so now it is better. It might also have been helped by the fact that 2 of the guys here have agreed to sleep naked - it was one of their mother's stories, when they were little, that if they slept naked the rats would be attracted to the room so we asked them to try it out for us.

We are coming to terms with the lack of electricity but there is always excitement when the lights come on. The water is a little more difficult to contend with as you can't be certain if there will be any, if it will be hot or if it will last long enough to be able to wash the shampoo out again (been caught out a couple of times now by that one!).

Most people here now have experienced a bad stomach, some worse than others, I ended up taken one of the ladies to hospital earlier in the week as she had been ill and then passed out. The hospital was great though and she had extensive tests, x-ray and ECG done and results back within 2 hours - she was fine! Touch wood I have been OK so far.

Last week was a week for celebrations. It was New Year and more importantly my birthday. Decided to have a party on the Monday, as we did not have to go to school on Tuesday. We organised music, food and drink then, the man who owns the training centre surprised me. He had organised for two girls to come and dance for me. The dances were traditional Nepali dances and I was presented with a scarf as the special guest. They then presented me with a present of a photo frame and then a birthday cake with my name on it. Very special. The party was great with lots of dancing and singing and the big melon soaked in vodka was a hit. They came to turn the music off at 11pm - unfortunately Nepali night life finishes early so that you can be up by 5 or 6 am. Not one to give up though, we carried on in one of the bedrooms and got to bed about 3.30am. Not the same as being at home with family and friends but it was a great time and the people I am with made it special. They even clubbed together to give me a bucket of water to wash in! It was cold water and a few people had donated a few cups - better than nothing but I had been looking forward to treating myself to a shower with shower gel.

On my actual birthday, I got up early and had a few cards and presents. Anne brought me a red umbrella and had written a great poem about me and my umbrella. I also got a baseball cap and mask (to help with the dust and pollution) from Rickie and a packet of kit-kats (all in red). I was very happy until I had to spend the day in class on my own. My other class mates and a couple of others had to go into Kathmandu to get their tourist visa renewed. Luckily, I am told, my work visa has already been processed. We spent the evening with the last of the vodka and a couple of beers and I was very happy to get some birthday cards from home that my friends collected when they went into Kathmandu.

Yesterday 4 of us went for a day out to Panauti - it is a fairly large town with an historic area with lots of temples. It is claimed to have the oldest temple in Nepal - dating back to the 13th century. It is also where people bring their elderly and sick to die. They lay the people with their feet in the river as part of a cleansing and purifying process. After they die they then cremate the bodies by the river. We had a good day exploring and were lucky to be allowed into the temple as there was a party from Kathmandu University doing a field trip and the head priest had opened the temple especially. We also were invited into a government school on the way back, to have a look at the classrooms and chat with the teachers. Everyone is very friendly and welcoming.

Today we are preparing for a trip to Kathmandu tomorrow to meet people from the organisations we will be working with (strikes allowing). There are strikes here just about every other day it seems and for any reason (more of this and politics another time). They have warned us that not everyone turns up so I will find out when I get there if anyone comes from Birgunj.

On Tuesday we are heading off for a village stay. We will all go to stay with different families and take part in village life for a week. We have already had some cultural sessions on such topics as eating with the left hand only, not sharing food off a plate, sitting with your legs crossed (as it is extremely rude to show anyone the soles of your feet), using squat toilets and toilet etiquette and also how to shower outside under your lungi (and boys near to keep on their over-underpants!). I am told by others that we can expect an audience when we go to shower and that the village likes to come and watch at the communal taps................ Will let you know how that goes and if I have more than half an hours worth of Nepali to communicate with!