Studying and Birthdaying in Budol

At the moment I am staying at a training centre outside of Kathmandu in a village called Budol (just outside Banepa). There are 12 volunteers here (all new) and 4 teachers. We spend our days eating - lots and lots of Dahl Bhaat, studying and occasionally we venture out to explore the village and wander into town to see whether there is any electricity for the internet.

The Nepali language is coming along - some days better than others - we learn using the romanised script mostly, but we are also learning a little Nepali script. It is hard going and learning the Nepali script I feel I know what it was like when I first started reading. You have to first recognise each letter then try to remember the sound it makes and then try and sound out the whole word. It really feels great though when you can sound out a whole word!!

Have made friends with a family in the village and Rickie and I have been a couple of times for tea with them - the grandmother keeps asking if I will take her back to England with me but I told her I think her family will miss her too much! They have just started taking down the house - brick by brick - and then they will rebuild it on the same spot. We haven't figured out if they will make it bigger or they just fancied a new look. Meanwhile, the parents are staying in what I can only describe as a pile of bricks building and the children have moved in with relatives next door.

We all have rooms at the training centre and I am sharing with the crazy Dutch woman (Rickie) - actually we get on really well and I am very happy that we are sharing. After spending a month in the group there are times I am pleased to find a little space and Rickie and I keep each other sane! We have had a little problem with rats in our bedroom - well the rats were not such a problem it was more Rickie's screaming when she saw one! The people came over and sealed some of the holes in the ceiling and so now it is better. It might also have been helped by the fact that 2 of the guys here have agreed to sleep naked - it was one of their mother's stories, when they were little, that if they slept naked the rats would be attracted to the room so we asked them to try it out for us.

We are coming to terms with the lack of electricity but there is always excitement when the lights come on. The water is a little more difficult to contend with as you can't be certain if there will be any, if it will be hot or if it will last long enough to be able to wash the shampoo out again (been caught out a couple of times now by that one!).

Most people here now have experienced a bad stomach, some worse than others, I ended up taken one of the ladies to hospital earlier in the week as she had been ill and then passed out. The hospital was great though and she had extensive tests, x-ray and ECG done and results back within 2 hours - she was fine! Touch wood I have been OK so far.

Last week was a week for celebrations. It was New Year and more importantly my birthday. Decided to have a party on the Monday, as we did not have to go to school on Tuesday. We organised music, food and drink then, the man who owns the training centre surprised me. He had organised for two girls to come and dance for me. The dances were traditional Nepali dances and I was presented with a scarf as the special guest. They then presented me with a present of a photo frame and then a birthday cake with my name on it. Very special. The party was great with lots of dancing and singing and the big melon soaked in vodka was a hit. They came to turn the music off at 11pm - unfortunately Nepali night life finishes early so that you can be up by 5 or 6 am. Not one to give up though, we carried on in one of the bedrooms and got to bed about 3.30am. Not the same as being at home with family and friends but it was a great time and the people I am with made it special. They even clubbed together to give me a bucket of water to wash in! It was cold water and a few people had donated a few cups - better than nothing but I had been looking forward to treating myself to a shower with shower gel.

On my actual birthday, I got up early and had a few cards and presents. Anne brought me a red umbrella and had written a great poem about me and my umbrella. I also got a baseball cap and mask (to help with the dust and pollution) from Rickie and a packet of kit-kats (all in red). I was very happy until I had to spend the day in class on my own. My other class mates and a couple of others had to go into Kathmandu to get their tourist visa renewed. Luckily, I am told, my work visa has already been processed. We spent the evening with the last of the vodka and a couple of beers and I was very happy to get some birthday cards from home that my friends collected when they went into Kathmandu.

Yesterday 4 of us went for a day out to Panauti - it is a fairly large town with an historic area with lots of temples. It is claimed to have the oldest temple in Nepal - dating back to the 13th century. It is also where people bring their elderly and sick to die. They lay the people with their feet in the river as part of a cleansing and purifying process. After they die they then cremate the bodies by the river. We had a good day exploring and were lucky to be allowed into the temple as there was a party from Kathmandu University doing a field trip and the head priest had opened the temple especially. We also were invited into a government school on the way back, to have a look at the classrooms and chat with the teachers. Everyone is very friendly and welcoming.

Today we are preparing for a trip to Kathmandu tomorrow to meet people from the organisations we will be working with (strikes allowing). There are strikes here just about every other day it seems and for any reason (more of this and politics another time). They have warned us that not everyone turns up so I will find out when I get there if anyone comes from Birgunj.

On Tuesday we are heading off for a village stay. We will all go to stay with different families and take part in village life for a week. We have already had some cultural sessions on such topics as eating with the left hand only, not sharing food off a plate, sitting with your legs crossed (as it is extremely rude to show anyone the soles of your feet), using squat toilets and toilet etiquette and also how to shower outside under your lungi (and boys near to keep on their over-underpants!). I am told by others that we can expect an audience when we go to shower and that the village likes to come and watch at the communal taps................ Will let you know how that goes and if I have more than half an hours worth of Nepali to communicate with!

Schools out for the weekend

Namaste, Sanchai chha?
Ok my Nepali is a little better than that but not much –it means hello and how are you?

It already seems like I have been here for a long time and ages since I left London but in reality it is just over a week. What a great week it has been. VSO has kept us busy with social, training and language events so no time to be bored or worry about what is coming next – I am just enjoying each day and will start thinking about my placement when the time comes.

Last weekend the old volunteers – yeah we are the newbies – took us out as teams to do a treasure hunt. It was a good way to learn about the areas close to the hostel. The main one is Thamel – which is a real tourist spot with lots of shops and bars, etc. We had a list of things to do and find along the way and the oldies pointed out good restaurants and the bookshop to send post home, etc. The good thing was our team one so I now have a Nepal baseball cap.

Monday, our teacher came to collect us and take us to class. He went easy on us the first day and we had basic introductions and an idea of what the course will include. My teacher was very excited when he heard my name – it means ‘goddess’ here. After class we had an appointment at the travel clinic and a talk by the doctor. Good to get another, local, view on health issues – basically he told us it would not be if we will get ill but when (Nepali belly). Also took advantage of my insurance and had my leg looked at – came away with an abscess (stress related) and it had gotten really bad. The doctor wanted to cut my leg – his words not mine- my words were no thanks I’ll have some antibiotics. All good now so much happier!

Tuesday and Wednesday we had language classes again (from 9 to 3). We were split into groups of 5 and I am really enjoying it. At the moment we are learning using their Romanised script but we were given a children’s book with Devaanagari script in it – it basically has the letters (well squiggles) written in broken writing and then we can draw over it! We will be learning that later.

My learning on Kathmandu this week is: roads have names but no one uses them – all directions are given via landmarks. Roads are very difficult to cross because of the amount of traffic and no one will stop for you. They have zebra crossings marked out but everyone keeps driving even if you are in their path! Pollution here is awful, even though there has been a bit of rain on a few days. A lot of people wear masks and chest and breathing problems are very common here.

People here work 6 days a week – Sunday to Friday – but VSO only work Monday to Friday (phew!!). Am adjusting to the power cuts and everyone makes a dash to recharge things when the electricity comes on. It is a little harder with water as that is unpredictable; the electricity runs to a timetable.

Am adjusting to the local currency already and am looking for good deals. I went out with Ricki for dinner one night and went to a nice restaurant but the meals were expensive, about 350 Nepali Rupees (around £3.00) so we went to another place and got a big curry dinner for NR150. I know it might not sound a lot to you but we were given our first allowance when we arrived and it works out at NR470 a day (that’s just under £4.20) for food, drink, transport, etc...

Had trouble sleeping a couple of nights – people go to bed early and get up early. So we are usually in our rooms by 10pm. However, as soon as it is bed time the dogs (which are everywhere) start barking and howling and barking, then, just as it seems like you have fallen asleep the traffic starts up and people are out and about making a lot of noise. Just outside the hostel there is a badminton court in the middle of the street and there is always someone playing when I wake up – the earliest I have seen is 6.00am. VSO gave us each a whistle when we arrived – for emergencies (there is a risk of earthquakes here) but I think I will start taking mine out in the day and use it to wake up the dogs that are curled up in little balls sleeping peacefully – maybe if they are awake during the day, I can get some sleep at night!!

Thursday and Friday we were at VSO offices. Everyone else decided to walk but, having a bad leg, I headed off to get the bus. I think the other volunteers thought I was very brave but I found my way asking several people along the way and practicing a bit of Nepali. We had some presentations on the areas that VSO work in Nepal. My work comes under the Participation and Governance stream but they also work in education and HIV and AIDS.

Had some good news that the person I am taking over from will still be in Birgunj when I get there so I will get a chance to get a handover from him. Well that’s if I get there. The town is very political and is known to be an area of unrest. The last few weeks things have become unsettled again and this week there has been a couple of stories of shootings and bombs and strikes in the town. VSO are doing a security risk assessment again this weekend so I will see whether they feel it is safe enough to go to or not.